Mogarraz is one of my favourite villages in Spain; I have been there at least three times. It has plenty of history, is very picturesque, has a great location, and oozes charm. Read on to find out more…

Mogarraz is a small, picturesque village in the province of Salamanca, situated in the autonomous community of Castile and León in north-western Spain. It is nestled in the Sierra de Francia mountain range within the natural park known as Las Batuecas-Sierra de Francia. It is approximately 80 kilometres southwest of the city of Salamanca.

A black-and-white film photo of the main street through the old quarters of Mogarraz. Three-storey stone and timber-framed houses are on both sides of the cobbled street.
The main street through the old quarters of Mogarraz
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location

The history of Mogarraz

Mogarraz’s history stretches back centuries, with evidence of human settlement dating back to prehistoric times. The village has witnessed various periods of Roman, Visigothic, and Moorish rule throughout history.

During the Middle Ages, Mogarraz was part of the Kingdom of León and later became a strategic location in the struggle between Christians and Muslims during the Reconquista. The village eventually came under Christian control in the 12th century.

In the centuries that followed, Mogarraz experienced periods of prosperity and decline, influenced by factors such as agriculture, trade, and conflicts. Its economy relied mainly on agriculture, forestry, and livestock.

Architecture

Mogarraz does have a distinct charm and historical character due to its traditional architecture, which reflects its long history, with some structures dating back to the medieval period.

A black-and-white film photo of a small cobbled square.
A small square with stone and timber framed houses, typical of the village
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/250 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location

Narrow streets, well-preserved stone houses and historic buildings characterise the village’s layout.

Tourism

Mogarraz has become known for its cultural heritage and tourism. Visitors are drawn to Mogarraz for several reasons:

  • Historical and Cultural Attractions, including landmarks such as the Church of San Martín, the Plaza Mayor, and the ethnographic museum.
  • Outdoor Activities: Mogarraz is situated in the picturesque Sierra de Francia mountain range and offers outdoor activities such as hiking, nature walks, and birdwatching in the countryside.
  • The “Las Caras de Mogarraz” project (more details below), featuring portraits painted on the facades of houses, has garnered attention and become a unique attraction.
  • Local Cuisine and Festivals.

Las Caras de Mogarraz

Recently, Mogarraz gained attention for an art project called “Las Caras de Mogarraz” (The Faces of Mogarraz), where portraits of villagers were painted on the facades of houses, creating a unique outdoor art gallery.

A narrow meandering cobbled street through Mogarraz with portraits of villagers painted on the house facades
A narrow cobbled street in Mogarraz with portraits of villagers painted on the house facades. You will spot such portraits in most of the photographs - look out for them.
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location

The inspiration for the project came from old photographs found in the village archives featuring residents of Mogarraz from the early 20th century. Maillo decided to create large-scale paintings based on these photographs and then display them on the facades of the houses where the depicted individuals had once lived.

The project has revitalised the village by turning it into an outdoor art gallery, attracting tourists and art enthusiasts. It also preserves the memory of Mogarraz’s past inhabitants and contributes to the sense of community identity.

Film photo details

I used two different film cameras to take the photos on this page:

  • A Mamiya M645 1000S with Ilford FP4 film. Developer: Ilfotec LC29, 1+19, for 7 minutes 30 seconds @20C.
  • A Nikon FE2 with Ilford Delta 100 film. Developer: Ilfotec LC29, 1+29, for 7 minutes 30 seconds @20C.

The photos were digitised using a Nikon Z6 mirrorless digital camera with a Tokina AT-X Pro Macro 100mm f2.8 D lens and processed using Capture One software.

The photos were taken throughout the old quarters of Mogarraz. Let’s take a wander and explore…

Click on any photo to see a larger version.

The main street through the old part of Mogarraz. Traditional stone and timber-framed houses on both sides of the cobbled street.
Mogarraz, an old traditional Spanish village full of history and charm
Camera: M645 1000S, Lens: Mamiya Sekor C 1:2.8 55mm, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 125, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a side alley with old stone houses. Two cats are dozing in the middle of the alley. Stone steps on the left and right lead up to the front doors of houses.
Sleepy cats in a side alley
Camera: M645 1000S, Lens: Mamiya Sekor C 1:2.8 55mm, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 5.6, , Film ISO: 125, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a cobbled side street with stone houses. There are portrait paintings on the houses on the left.
A cobbled side street
Camera: M645 1000S, Lens: Mamiya Sekor C 1:2.8 55mm, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 125, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a street junction. Several different house styles are present, mostly stone built and timber framed.
Street junction
Camera: M645 1000S, Lens: Mamiya Sekor C 1:2.8 55mm, Exposure Time: 1/125 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 125, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo looking along a row of terraced houses on the left of a cobbled street. The first two timber doors are very old and have decayed along the bottom.
Mogarraz is a real working village. It is not all immaculately restored for show.
Camera: M645 1000S, Lens: Mamiya Sekor C 1:2.8 55mm, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 125, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo looking down a narrow street at Nuestra Señora de la Nieves church. Only a small part of the church is visible. The church walls are covered with portrait paintings.
Nuestra Señora de la Nieves church viewed through a narrow street. The church walls probably exhibit the greatest concentration of portraits in the village.
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a group of people standing in a square behind the church waiting for the procession.
Today was a religious festival. People gather, waiting for the procession. Note that the Spanish are all in the shade - it was a hot summer's day!
Camera: M645 1000S, Lens: Mamiya Sekor C 1:2.8 55mm, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 125, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a group of artists in the square behind the church painting a village scene.
Al fresco art class
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/125 sec, f 5.6, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a group of artists painting the village church. The artists have their easels set up in the shade in the far corner of the square, facing the church belfry.
A group of artists painting the village church
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/250 sec, f 5.6, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a steep, narrow side street, with very old stone houses on both sides.
A steep, narrow side street
Camera: M645 1000S, Lens: Mamiya Sekor C 1:2.8 55mm, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 4, , Film ISO: 125, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of two very old timber doors, chained and secured. It looks like animals may have been kept here; the doors do not appear to be used regularly.
Secured but not in use
Camera: M645 1000S, Lens: Mamiya Sekor C 1:2.8 55mm, Exposure Time: 1/125 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 125, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a blind, side alley with old stone and timber-framed houses.
A blind, side alley
Camera: M645 1000S, Lens: Mamiya Sekor C 1:2.8 55mm, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 5.6, , Film ISO: 125, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of the main street through the old quarters of Mogarraz. Three-storey stone and timber-framed houses are on both sides of the cobbled street. The upper storeys of some of the houses cantilever out into the street.
The main street through the old quarters of Mogarraz
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of the main street through the old quarters of Mogarraz. Three-storey stone and timber-framed houses are on both sides of the cobbled street.
The main street through the old quarters of Mogarraz. Notice all the portraits on the first two houses on the left.
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a narrow street with houses on both sides. A man is sitting on his doorstep. Another man is walking down the cobbled street.
A man sitting on his doorstep, watching life go by
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a narrow street in Mogarraz.
A narrow street in Mogarraz
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location
A black-and-white film photo of a narrow street in Mogarraz.
A narrow street in Mogarraz
Camera: FE2, Lens: Nikkor 35-105 Zoom, Exposure Time: 1/60 sec, f 8, , Film ISO: 100, GPS location

Film roll No’s 272 and 274

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